Porto de Galinhas is a mix of natural paradise and contrasting realities. That’s how it felt to us.
This Brazilian gem draws visitors from all over the country with its stunning beaches and famous natural pools. These crystal-clear pools, formed by tides and coral reefs, are truly a sight to see. Unfortunately, we missed the postcard-perfect view of Porto de Galinhas because the tide was too high during our visit. To see the reefs fully exposed, you need a tide level of 0.0, but even with the 0.3 we experienced, it’s still worth it. To reach the natural pools, you take a "Jangada," a traditional fishing boat powered by a wooden pole, a motor, and/or a sail. Just crossing over in a Jangada is a fun experience. Before you go, make sure your guide is registered with the local association. The safest option is to buy your ticket directly at their office.
If you prefer walking to the pools, you’ll need to wait for low tide when the reefs are visible. But keep in mind, the uneven terrain and sea urchins can make the journey tricky.
From Porto de Galinhas, there are plenty of beaches worth checking out. Here are a few we’d recommend:
Praia de Muro Alto
Home to the world’s second-largest natural pool. You can even swim across to the reefs.
Praia do Cupe
A nice beach with natural pools just a few meters from the shore, even accessible if you can’t swim.
Praia de Maracaípe
Perfect for those who love wilder beaches. Swimming isn’t advised at high tide unless you’re a strong swimmer due to the waves, but surfers will love it. At low tide, it’s great for a walk.
Pontal de Maracaípe
A must-visit for an unforgettable sunset.
Before visiting, I imagined Porto de Galinhas' natural pools as pristine, untouched spots. That’s what drew us there. While they probably once were, years of mass tourism have taken a toll. The pools we saw were packed with both tourists and fish. The fish, used to being fed for photos, rush toward you. Sure, the fish are beautiful, and it’s great that locals earn a living from tourism, but it’s sad to see these natural treasures partly damaged.
Beyond the postcard image, the reality is more complex, showing the challenges of tourism and a lack of infrastructure. The beaches near Porto de Galinhas are breathtaking, but the contrast is striking when you look behind them. Just beyond the sandy shores are areas marked by shocking poverty, far removed from the tourist resorts. Streets are filled with a mix of people, chickens, horses, and pigs, while houses seem to stand by a miracle. Parking is a hassle, as there are no proper lots, forcing you to leave your car in open fields. Vendors and paid services are everywhere.
That said, the downtown area is charming, with its lively pedestrian streets, great restaurants, and local crafts shops. It feels safe, too.
Tourism is the main livelihood here, and locals take security seriously. Theft isn’t tolerated because it would harm their main source of income, so there’s a kind of community-enforced justice. This makes it easy to relax and enjoy your trip.
The restaurant at our Pousada wasn’t great, so we ventured out to explore local cuisine. Our favorites:
- Peixe na Telha: A great spot for Moqueca.
- Munganga: Excellent barbecue.
- Caldinho de Nenen: Amazing seafood and "petiscos" (appetizer soups).
- De Boa Gelato: Hands down the best Açai we’ve ever had. Delicious.
We had a great time here and recommend staying at least four nights to fully enjoy the region. However, speaking Portuguese is essential. Few locals speak other languages, which can make communication tough if you don’t.
To us, Porto de Galinhas is both a fascinating destination and a reminder of the challenges of mass tourism. While its beaches and tides are breathtaking, there’s an urgent need to find ways to protect this unique ecosystem and reduce inequalities. As tourists, it’s up to us to act responsibly and help preserve this Brazilian treasure.
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